On my recent trip to Manali, I stayed at a magical property, one of the prettiest in the hill station – Johnson Lodge. Located between the Mall Road and Old Manali, it’s the perfect place to stay, especially if you’re looking to explore Manali on foot. The cafe and bar serves delicious food, I loved their English breakfast with eggs, sausages, bacon and mushroom. The cottage rooms are super comfortable and we got fresh logs to light up the fireplace. In the summer months the staff even arrange a bonfire outside in the garden if you’re in a large group. There’s a cosy little spa in the corner, inside which lives Tango – the adorable cocker spaniel at Johnson’s. If you’re looking to visit Manali at any time of the year, this place is a perfect ten on location, rooms, activities and most importantly food!
The Johnsons Cafe and Hotel next door is also a great option to stay as well as eat at. Post a ten minute walk from the hotels towards old Manali, one can find lovely little stores selling Kinnauri and Kullu shawls and traditional Himachali woolen handicrafts. On the other side, the Mall Road is hardly at a distance of a few hundred meters with its iconic Chinese Tibetan restaurant Chopsticks.
The room tariffs at both the Johnsons properties are extremely affordable at under 4k for 2. If you book the cottage which can accommodate upto 6 people, the tariff is about 6-9k.
I will write more about food & activities in Manali in some of my future posts. Happy traveling!
“How would you like to spend a weekend on the estate of the royal family of Jaipur, just across the fence from the erstwhile residence of the late Maharani Gayatri Devi?”
I wasn’t sure. It is May and temperatures are soaring in Jaipur. Who goes to Rajasthan in the summer?
But Jaipur is also just a short 4 hour drive/train journey away from Delhi, much closer than going to the hills and very easily doable on a usual two day weekend.
With these thoughts in mind, I accepted an invitation (one that I had proactively asked for!), from Taj SMS Hotel Jaipur. It turned out to be one of the best weekends I have spent in a long time!
Taj SMS Hotel, Jaipur
When most of us think of Taj Hotels, we think of luxury, opulence, heritage and an almost unaffordable tariff! While the last bit is true for most Taj Palace properties, the hotel chain also has many smaller and affordable options like the Vivanta and Gateway properties. These are great if you’re looking to spend a special day with your family/partner/friends, a comfortable if not entirely luxurious office team retreat, a venue to celebrate an occasion like a wedding/engagement or just a relaxed weekend you may have saved up for.
The Taj SMS Hotel Jaipur is located in the annexe to the Rambagh Palace, the erstwhile residence of the royal family of Jaipur and now the uber luxurious Taj Rambagh Palace Hotel. Also known as the Taj SMS Convention Center and Rooms, the hotel used to be the guest house for the Rambagh Palace, housing the visitors of the royal family. Now it is a small boutique property with 21 rooms, a swimming pool amidst lush green lawns, a cosy restaurant and a large Convention Center to host events. The banquet halls are named after various forts – Jaigarh, Nahargarh, Ranthambore, Kesar Bagh. The hotel is centrally located close to the railway station, City Palace, Hawa Mahal, Patrika Gate and all major tourist attractions and markets – well within a 10 km radius.
Taj SMS Hotel, Jaipur
Taj SMS Hotel, Jaipur
SMS Convention Center
The staff make sure to treat you like royalty and effortlessly live up to the “Atithi Devo Bhava” practice from the moment you set foot in their premises. I was greeted by Mr. Jitendra at the front desk who arranged for lovely genda phool garlands, a small teeka and a chilled drink of khus khus to ensure a warm welcome. Keeping with the weather in May, they periodically bring you cold face towels and sherbets.
I was taken to my room which was large, spacious, beautifully decorated with a small private balcony overlooking the garden and the swimming pool. The interiors of the room were aesthetically chosen keeping in mind the visual cues of Rajasthan – bright colors, antique furniture and paintings of traditional dancers, musicians and warriors – all three quintessential Rajasthani vocations.
Standard Superior Pool/Garden View Room
Standard Superior Pool/Garden View Room
Standard Superior Pool/Garden View Room
Mr. Jalpreet from the marketing team of the hotel escorted me on a tour of the SMS Convention Center and narrated to me a brief history of the Palace and the guesthouse. The hotel is partly under renovation and will have a brand new events venue soon.
The staff of SMS Hotel organised a lot of wonderful activities for me – feeding peacocks, a traditional magic show, a rangoli making session, an evening by the poolside, a cooking session with the head Chef and a wonderful tour of the Rambagh Palace. All of these activities are included in their package and are not additionally charged for.
A guided tour with Mr. Jalpreet
An evening making rangoli
Ms. Cheshtha from Rambagh Palace took me on a memorable tour of the palace lawns, rooms, restaurants, history of the Maharajas, the courtyards, the ballrooms, the swimming pools which are now part of the Jiva Grande Spa and the royal culture of Jaipur. The Palace complex including the SMS Hotels are home to over 200 peacocks and it is a truly grand experience to watch them unfurl their feathers every five steps of your walk. The environs have been especially maintained to conserve and foster the peacock population – again a symbol of traditional Rajasthani culture. Rides can also be enjoyed on vintage cars and horse buggies belonging to the royal family. In the evening, one can participate in the traditional decorations of the Palace – lighting lamps, diyas, floral decor and rangolis.
Rambagh Palace, Jaipur
Rambagh Palace, Jaipur
Rambagh Palace, Jaipur
Rambagh Palace, Jaipur
Rambagh Palace, Jaipur
During the palace tour, I also got a great insight into the life and work of Maharani Gayatri Devi, an icon and a diva, revered and loved by many. It is truly a surreal experience to spend a weekend in the premises of a palace which was till very recently until her demise, her home. Having been a great fan of the Rajmata, this was the highlight of my stay.
Maharani Gayatri Devi
I especially enjoyed my dinner at Steam, Rambagh Palace. It is a restaurant created inside a restored Victorian era train. The engine and compartments house tables and couches which make for a great dining experience. They serve Lebanese and Continental food and the keema kulcha was especially delicious. Fun fact they also have Zomato Gold (1+1).
Steam, Rambagh Palace
Steam, Rambagh Palace
Back at the SMS Hotel I found some beautiful tokens in my room – a complimentary foot soak with sea salt and rose petals, a box of earrings and cufflinks, a wooden peacock figurine and jars of traditional Rajasthani kachoris and jaggery sweets. Everything was accompanied by thoughtful notes and trivia about Rajasthan and the history of the palace.
With best compliments from Taj SMS Hotel Jaipur
5 Reasons you need to plan a staycation at Taj SMS Hotel Jaipur:
It is closer to Delhi than any other destination at any time of the year
Be prepared to be treated just like royalty at under 10k for two for 1N/2D
Enjoy activities, experiences and authentic Rajasthani tradition, culture and cuisine (all included in your package!)
You don’t need to step out of the hotel for anything, you will be thoroughly pampered throughout the stay by the most humble and wonderful staff
Enjoy the privileges of Rambagh Palace at a fraction of it’s rate – a holiday full of luxury, culture, history and delicious food!
Unlike many other hotels, the SMS Hotel serves your complimentary breakfast buffet in your room and this was a blessing for me because the activities of the previous day had left me exhausted. I must leave a special mention for the crispy bacon in their breakfast, one of the best I have eaten. The staff had organised a special cooking session with Mr. Shailendra, the chef. This was my last activity for the weekend and undoubtedly the best one!
Breakfast in Bed at Taj SMS Hotel, Jaipur
Mr. Shailendra belongs to a family of traditional cooks who have served the royal family of Jaipur for generations. He has personally cooked for Maharani Gayatri Devi and shared with me some of her favourite dishes. At a nicely set up cooking kiosk, he showed me how to make traditional Rajputana Laal Maas – one of the best mutton preparations of India. He whipped up a delicious preparation from scratch which was then served to me with piping hot chapatis. He also gave me a hand written recipe to take back home with me. (This was a complimentary session on behalf of the hotel!)
Session with Chef Shailendra at Taj SMS Hotel, Jaipur
Raw ingredients of traditional Rajputana Lal Maas
Chef Shailendra at work
Freshly cooked Lal Maas
Rajputana Lal Maas served with Chapati
The staff at SMS Hotel was like a family hosting you at their home. Mr Magan, the duty manager has been associated with the hotel for over 30 years. The peacocks on the property all recognise him as a friend and assemble every evening at the lobby to be fed by him. While I was checking out, he packed me a small box of the jaggery sweets which were made at their kitchen and which I had especially loved. All the staff members including Mr. Rahul, Mr. Shailendra, Mr. Nitin and Mr. Nagendra were extremely hospitable. While serving meals, they stood with me while I ate and spoke about various topics like the history of Rajasthan to the upcoming Lok Sabha elections, all the while making sure I was well fed and taken care of.
Everyone came to see me off just like when you visit your friends or relatives.
Thank you Taj SMS Hotel for inviting me, it was a wonderful collaboration. We mostly hear about the unparalleled human values and hospitality of the Tata Group and the Taj Hotels, I got to experience it first hand. I look forward to many more such partnerships, creating many more beautiful memories and most importantly forging some lifelong friendships!
Thank you to the exceptionally wonderful team at Taj SMS Hotel Jaipur
After a hectic but wonderful two days in Pondicherry (coming up in the next few posts), I was very excited for the next leg of my holiday – Kerala. Munching on delicious vadas picked up along the beautiful East Coast Road, I scrolled through some last minute suggestions on Things to Do in Kerala, as we sped off to the Chennai Airport for our flight to Kochi.
ECR, Tamil Nadu
We almost missed the flight, thanks to underestimating
morning rush hour traffic in Chennai, but the mismanaged over congested Chennai
airport ensured an inevitable flight delay, much to our relief.
Two hours later, I was huddled in my window seat looking
down at the beautiful Nilgiris and winding backwaters as we commenced our
descent into Kerala. The Cochin International Airport is a charming building,
red roofed with a distinct colonial influence in the architecture. The journey
from the airport to our hotel in Willingdon Island was long but covered most of
the newer parts of urban Kochi. With shopping malls, commercial buildings and
even an emerging metro rail service, Kochi is akin to any other nascent
metropolitan city in India.
We checked into the Trident hotel in Kochi, a beautiful new
property, lush and cosy with a pool between gardens of palm trees. Willingdon
Island is a quiet and serene artificial island also home to the Port of Kochi
and the naval base. Apart from the Trident, a few other hotels are also located
in Willingdon Island. The Fort Cochin Seafood Specialty Restaurant in the CGH
Earth Casino Hotel serves delicious preparations of crab and squid. There is
also the majestic Taj Malabar with it’s popular restaurant Rice Boat serving
varieties of meen moilee (traditional Kerala fish curry) with portions of fresh
catch of the day! It is a lovely spot to spend an afternoon by the Arabian Sea
over local food and glasses of peach Bellini!
Trident Hotel, Kochi
The Rice Boat, Taj Malabar
Fort Cochin Seafood Specialty Restaurant, CGH Earth
We were visiting Kochi during the opening week of the Kochi
Muziris Biennale, the largest contemporary arts festival in South Asia. Fort
Kochi is the venue for this popular event and that’s where we spent the majority
of our time in Kochi.
Fort Kochi is the older part of the city reflecting the
various cultural influences that have shaped Kochi over the centuries – Chinese
fishing nets, Portugese churches dating back to the 1600s, the Matancherry
Palace built by the Dutch and the quaint Jew Town with the synagogue and spice
shops. The Biennale is hosted at various venues scattered across Fort Kochi
with its focal point at the Aspinwall House, a trading warehouse of the
erstwhile East India Company, now a sea-facing heritage building.
Matancherry Palace, Kochi
Cafes, restaurants, art galleries, bookstores, libraries,
backpackers hostels, colonial hotels all form part of the vibrant bustling
landscape of Fort Kochi. Some of my favourites were the Kashi Art Gallery &
Café, Fort House Hotel, Old Harbour Hotel and the Mocha Art House Café Jew
Town. Princess Street in Fort Kochi is a must visit for literature aficionados
if you’re looking for old bookstores and reading rooms. There are walls with
art and quotes from Albert Camus even!
A bookstore in Princess Street , Fort Kochi
One of the most fun things to do in Kochi is the ferry ride.
There are regular public ferries connecting the three islands – Ernakulam,
Willingdon Island and Fort Kochi. We rode the ferry from Fort Kochi to Vypeen
island in just 3 rupees! If you are looking to spend an evening with chai and
banana pakoras on a silent seaside, the Puthuvypu Lighthouse beach in Vypeen is
a lesser known alternative to the popular Cherai beach. It is a fifteen minute
auto ride away from the Vypeen jetty.
The ferry ticket from Fort Kochi jetty to Vypeen Island
Puthuvypu Lighthouse Beach, Vypeen
There is a lot more to Kochi which we could not cover in a
span of just two days, but it is the perfect gateway to Kerala! In my next post
I will write about our adventures in the backwaters of Kumarakom and Allepey.
Happy reading
I had never lived on my own. I had never lived outside Delhi.
Until I moved to Ahmedabad in the summer of 2015 to pursue my post graduation.
I arrived with a baggage of Gujju stereotypes – sweet food, only vegetarian restaurants, no beer or chicken, “kem cho, maja ma” jokes and practically no real knowledge of the city or it’s culture. I was pleasantly surprised as all these preconceived notions soon dissolved as I explored Ahmedabad over the next two years.
Ahmedabad is not all about dhokhla or dandiya. The city radiates positive energy, amidst all the char-rastas, khao-gulleys and the super-efficient BRT lanes. It is clean and spacious, warm and accepting. I always enjoyed the drive from the airport to my college, because it mapped the breadth of the city. The airport opened into the green cantonment area driving through which was full of mixed feelings every time. Majorly, I missed my trip back home but there was always a sense of excitement for new adventures to come.
Picture source : Wikipedia
The Uber skimmed through the older parts of the city very quickly. One of the fondest memories of there is of course, Manek Chowk. It is crowded, dirty and possibly home to every type of water-borne infection. But if you’ve lived in Ahmedabad and not eaten at Manek Chowk, you haven’t really lived in Ahmedabad. My favourite item was a super unhealthy grilled sandwich, for which one had to first battle a hurricane of humanity.
Picture Source: Indian Street Food
The Riverfront built alongside the Sabarmati river is one of the new additions to the city’s urban landscape. It is a long stretch of lawns and pavements, with provision to sit beside the river. At night, the lights of the city are reflected in the river, giving off a vibe akin to Marine Drive in Bombay. The promenade is always bustling with friends, families and fairs. One of my most memorable evenings in Ahmedabad was at one such fair at the Riverfront, sitting on a giant wheel and watching the city lights.
“City of Stars, Are you shining just for me?”
Ahmedabad isn’t a very big city. It is comfortable and cosy and has it’s moments.
The Ellis Bridge over the river crosses into the newer parts of Ahmedabad. One of my favourite places is The Project Cafe in Vastrapur- a small bungalow converted into a cheery yellow-blue cafe, with art and curios and great food, albeit vegetarian. Some great memories were shared here, over many cups of hot chocolate and green tea.
“Life is a beautiful ride” The Project Cafe, Ahmedabad
Picture Source : Tripadvisor
A Gujarati couple far away in the United States decided to quit their well paying jobs and come back to their family in Ahmedabad. Thanks to their homecoming, the city was blessed with a bakery called Buttercupp. They bake the freshest and most delicious cupcakes every morning and are almost always sold out in a few hours. Every occasion in hostel was incomplete without a batch of cupcakes from Buttercupp. Bad days were never so bad, because they had one simple cure – a trip to Buttercupp for their Double Dip cupcake!
Picture Source: City Shor
A canopy of twinkling lightbulbs marks the Food Truck Park on SG Highway. It was started almost a year after I moved to Ahmedabad. Always buzzing with young people and experimental cuisine like jamun shots and cheeseburst pizza dosa, this place was a universal pick for eating out at night. The Arabian Knife counter was one of the best shawarma fixes in the city. Just an aside, the Food Truck Park was a very poor choice for secret dates, because you would almost always end up bumping into someone you knew!
Picture Source: Twitter
Ahmedabad is charming – a city that blends history with contemporary quite effortlessly. The Cafe Natrani, situated at Mallika Sarabhai’s famous Darpana Academy is a lively open-air space, somewhat reminiscent of the Prithvi Cafe in Mumbai. They serve perfectly made tea in cups that remind you of home. If you’re looking to spend a quiet, beautiful evening in Ahmedabad only interspersed with the sounds of a buzzing fan, Cafe Natrani is where you’ll find a good memory awaiting you.
Picture Source: Imagala
In retrospection, living away from home for the first time, became an easy experience in a city that let you be who you were. Amidst all the food and fervour, one of the most significant emotions that I associate with Ahmedabad is that of truly being free of constraints – personal, professional or social. There was a certain innocence about the city that delivered memories worth a lifetime and expected nothing in return. While living in the mellow pace of Ahmedabad, you savor your time here and cherish it when you’re gone.